From the moment one enters its outskirts from one of the many small picturesque roads that lead in to the historic town like spokes of a wheel, one is aware that Gettysburg is a special place. As you approach the spoke of this historic town and the old buildings come into view, they seem to announce that you are being transported back in time, back to a very troubled time in our history.
On this 150th anniversary of the American Civil War, what better place to visit to remember and contemplate this divisive time in our history than Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.
History
Gettysburg, a small town in a beautiful part of our country is the place of the 14th battle of the Civil War and the first and only one fought on northern territory. Lee had crossed the Potomac with plans for invading the North when Rebel troops looking for shoes in Gettysburg discovered that Federal Troops were there. Lee thought this was an excellent opportunity to defeat the northern troops on their own territory, and the battle began.
Gettysburg is where 163,000 soldiers clashed and 51,000 were killed. Although General Lee believed it would be a positive turning point for the South in the war if he could successfully invade northern territory, in fact it became a negative turning point for the South.
The North suffered heavy losses on the first day and retreated to high ground on Cemetery Ridge where they were able to strengthen their position after General Ewell hesitated to attack.
Another delay by General Longstreet in mounting his attack on the second day also helped the North to fortify their position. Longstreet had earlier argued that he thought the Union position was impregnable but was overruled by Lee. Longstreet was correct. Longstreet attacked from the south and Ewell attacked from the north and east but although suffering heavy losses, the Northern troops held their defensive positions.
Day three saw Lee gamble and try to attack the center of the Union line. This turned out to be Pickett’s charge, a massive slaughter for the Rebel troops who fell prey to the false impression the Union troops gave that their canons had been destroyed. After the Union silenced their canons on purpose, the Rebels attacked with a force that was one mile long believing the Union forces were defenseless. They were completely vulnerable to the Union’s canons, which began firing again. Later lee would claim, ‘It’s all my fault.”
After many prior losses the North successfully repelled the rebel forces after a fierce three-day battle in 1863. It was the so-called High-water mark for the Confederacy for it would never again show such strength but rather would begin its slow journey toward Lee’s surrender to Grant at Appomattox in 1865.
Although the death of 51,000 soldiers is memorialized at Gettysburg, it is not so much a place to remember part of our history but rather to contemplate its meaning.
I have been there many times and have found the place both fascinating and haunting. Every American should plan a pilgrimage to that peaceful place in Adams County, Pennsylvania that perhaps defined the course of our history as The Union Army of the Potomac clashed with Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia for three hot days on July 1, 2 and 3 in July 1863.
Lincoln’s Famous Speech
It is also where President Lincoln gave that famous speech on November 19, 1863 at the dedication of the Soldiers’ National Cemetery—a speech that was only a little over two minutes in length, but is one of the most famous speeches in history.
That of course is the Gettysburg Address in which Lincoln stated that the Civil War was not just a struggle for the Union but one for “a new birth of freedom.” This famous speech was so short that the official photographer had not set up yet and could only snap Lincoln’s picture as he was returning to his carriage. Today the Gettysburg Address Memorial on Cemetery Hill honors this great speech. A plaque is attached to the memorial with the speech inscribed. The actual speech was given about 300 yards north of the memorial.
History Preserved
Although there are restaurants, souvenir shops and hotels in Gettysburg, the battlefield, cemetery and surrounding acreage have been preserved. In fact, there is an ongoing effort to keep this area as it was in 1863. Other battlefields have not been so fortunate since many have been taken over by modern development and many more are threatened each hour of every day.
Places to Visit
There are many historic places to visit in Gettysburg and it may take more than one visit to see most of them
Upon arriving in Gettysburg, perhaps the best place to start your tour of this historic battlefield is the new Gettysburg History Center, which houses as its centerpiece the beautiful diorama recently restored and moved to this new building. The diorama is indeed breathtaking and one should silently thank the many individuals who over the years have participated in its preservation and helped it survive.
The folks behind the History Center bring the three-day battle to life with a dramatic fully narrated light and sound show integrated with the diorama. The History Center also has displays of Civil War artifacts, a gift shop, and a restaurant.
The Diorama is the main attraction however. It is a masterpiece to behold. Completed in 1883 by 20 artists led by Frenchman Paul Philippoteaux, it is 50 feet high and 400 feet in circular length. It represents 6000 acres of the Gettysburg battlefield. Accurate to scale it depicts fields, roads, horses and military equipment.
Nearly destroyed in 1901 by fire after it had been forgotten and packed in boxes sitting in a vacant lot in Boston, a department store owner named Albert Hahne rescued it. He eventually was the force behind having it shipped to Gettysburg where it has undergone several restorations since its arrival.
Also recently restored in 2006 and a noteworthy place to visit is the Lincoln Train Station. Near collapse after years of neglect, the station was brought back to life through the efforts of local citizens. It is there that President Lincoln arrived on November 18, 1863 and walked two blocks to the home of a wealthy attorney named David Wills who had invited him to stay overnight before giving his speech.
Although five original copies of the speech exist with slightly different text, it is believed that Lincoln penned the final version in the second story bedroom of the Wills House that night. A visitor can follow in Lincoln’s footsteps from the train station up to the Wills House and into the bedroom where Lincoln stayed and finalized his speech.
A tour of the battlefield and monuments is a must. There are several ways to do this. Driving around in a self directed tour with a map is one way. CD’s are also available which you can pop into your car’s CD’s player and guide you through the area as you drive.
Tours by buses with guides are also available and there are even equestrian tours for those who are not afraid of horses. These horses are supposedly quite tame so this might be a unique and exciting way to tour the battlefield.
Whatever method is selected, researching the battle before actually visiting the battlefield is highly recommended so one has a better understanding of some of the areas on the tour.
A little knowledge about the Union’s defensive strategy will be very helpful when visiting the battlefield. The Union’s defensive strategy to seek higher ground after the first day of battle, forming a pattern that is referred to as a “fish hook” was believed to be key in turning the battle to their favor. That “fish hook” defense was on high ground along areas which are well known today and should be visited during the tour.
The “fish hook” encompassed such areas such as Little Round Top, Big Round Top, The Wheatfield, The Peach Orchard, Culp’s Hill and Cemetery Ridge where the final surge by Lee’s forces known as Pickett’s charge was repelled by the Union forces.
Despite the many lives of soldiers that were lost at Gettysburg, only one citizen died in a battle related incident. That individual was a 20-year-old woman named Jennie Wade who was baking bread at her sister’s house and was killed by a stray Confederate bullet. The house is preserved as a museum now, much as it was including the original kitchen door with the holes made from the bullets that killed her.
The American Civil War Museum contains scenes depicting the civil war complete with old artifacts and life-like wax figures. A highlight is an automated Lincoln figure that delivers the Gettysburg address. The wax figures in the depicted scenes are so convincing in detail that one almost expects them to move at any moment.
It is said that the Wheatfield and many other areas are haunted by ghosts of the soldiers killed in the battle. A theory which has developed states some of the soldiers died so quickly without knowing what happened that they still remain on the battlefield not knowing that they should move on. Some visitors have even claimed to have seen small marching battle units at night. Many writers have visited the battlefield, interviewed witnesses and written books about the phenomena. If you have an interest in this subject there are several ghost tours available to you, which are conducted at night no less.
As a National Military Park overseen by the U.S National Park Service, Gettysburg has ranger-guided tours also. These dedicated individuals are quite knowledgeable about the history of the battle and a tour led by one of these rangers is quite rewarding.
Gettysburg is a small town and you will find that small town charm in the people there. The shop owners, restaurant owners, tour services people, rangers and others are friendly and always willing to help you and part with any historical information they have.
There are other areas of interest In Gettysburg. Free copies of colorful maps are available at restaurants and shops which show other historic areas as well as places to dine and stay overnight.
Conclusion
The civil war a divisive time in our history when brother fought brother. The conflict at Gettysburg was an important battle in that bloody conflict which lasted over four years. Many have spent their lives helping to preserve it. It is there for us to visit and contemplate.
A trip to Gettysburg is rewarding both spiritually and emotionally. A part of our great history lies there. From the tragic loss of life there, as Lincoln stated, there was a new beginning for the Union.
